TAG Heuer Visit/ LE Heuer-02t

Calibre11 · Jul 29, 2018

I've been away a while now, but spent the weekend catching up on all of the news and posts on the board- nice to be back! I had a nice visit with the TAG Heuer team in July, and spent some time looking at the work that the heritage department can now do- have to say that it's amazing. They are now set up to re-make dials, cases...and even completely strip old PVD watches and reapply, which is one of the hardest pieces of work you'll find.

The other news I thought was exciting was the desire to push "vintage" out of the 1960s and 70s and into the 1980s and beyond. While it's true that this is a somewhat challenged period of watchmaking for all brands, there are some special pieces in this era and I think it's fantastic that the "vintage" definition continues to be live, rather than stopping dead in 1985.

Finally, I did catch up with the team with regard to what could be next for a special edition watch. The most immediate opportunity would be a custom run of Carrera Heuer-02t Tourbillon watches. While these are not exactly either in the price range or scope of many on this forum, we could probably do a run as low as 5 watches, with a real ability to customise to exactly the specification that you wanted. Skeleton dial/ standard dial/ colours/ etc. So, if this appeals, let me know and we'll get designing!

dc

Mr_Orange · Jul 29, 2018

Calibre11
Finally, I did catch up with the team with regard to what could be next for a special edition watch. The most immediate opportunity would be a custom run of Carrera Heuer-02t Tourbillon watches. While these are not exactly either in the price range or scope of many on this forum, we could probably do a run as low as 5 watches, with a real ability to customise to exactly the specification that you wanted. Skeleton dial/ standard dial/ colours/ etc. So, if this appeals, let me know and we'll get designing!

dc

Thanks for the update DC.

Wow, I would love the opportunity to custom design an 02T as I feel like it has real potential to yield a very classy yet understated design but sadly the bank balance says no 🙁.

Hubert · Jul 29, 2018

Given the 55th anniversary, I still wish for a special edition heritage Carrera later this year. However. I do acknowledge this is just wishful thinking.

Otherwise, a special edition of a heritage Carrera, in a ~41mm classic case powered by a Heuer-02 movement, is what many enthusiasts and collectors have been hoping for.

Gambba · Jul 29, 2018

@Calibre11 your post reminds me DC I need to drop Catherine an email.....even more so now you’ve said about reapplication of PVD. My newly arrived Monza needs some movement work anyway and was thinking about the PVD.

abrod520 · Jul 30, 2018

Hubert
a special edition of a heritage Carrera, in a ~41mm classic case powered by a Heuer-02 movement, is what many enthusiasts and collectors have been hoping for.

For this to work the Heuer-02 movement must be slimmed down significantly; otherwise we get thick monstrosities like the lugs on the Calibre 17 Chronometer Boutique editions

Hubert · Jul 30, 2018

abrod520
For this to work the Heuer-02 movement must be slimmed down significantly; otherwise we get thick monstrosities like the lugs on the Calibre 17 Chronometer Boutique editions

The starting reference should be the CH80 prototypes from 2014. Those were pretty close to the Calibre 17 Boutique editions. Any improvements to the proportions would certainly be welcomed.
Pictures from David's 2014 First Look: https://www.calibre11.com/tag-heuer-carrera-calibre-ch80-first-look/

TonyStark · Jul 30, 2018

Calibre11
The other news I thought was exciting was the desire to push "vintage" out of the 1960s and 70s and into the 1980s and beyond. While it's true that this is a somewhat challenged period of watchmaking for all brands, there are some special pieces in this era and I think it's fantastic that the "vintage" definition continues to be live, rather than stopping dead in 1985.

dc

Great - a decent diver based on the 844 monnin/1000 series would be a welcome addition.... as would a few others I can think of

TonyStark · Jul 30, 2018

Calibre11
I've been away a while now, but spent the weekend catching up on all of the news and posts on the board- nice to be back! I had a nice visit with the TAG Heuer team in July, and spent some time looking at the work that the heritage department can now do- have to say that it's amazing. They are now set up to re-make dials, cases...and even completely strip old PVD watches and reapply....

dc

While I can see this is a great capability, how would this impact in terms of traceability? By that I mean would it be possible to tell a restored watch with replacement parts from a truly mint original?

Mr_Orange · Jul 30, 2018

abrod520
For this to work the Heuer-02 movement must be slimmed down significantly; otherwise we get thick monstrosities like the lugs on the Calibre 17 Chronometer Boutique editions

That is a real exaggeration. The Calibre 17 Chronometers were much, much nicer than you are making out with the lugs being no different to a Calibre 1887 based 41mm watch.

Calibre11 · Jul 30, 2018

TonyStark
While I can see this is a great capability, how would this impact in terms of traceability? By that I mean would it be possible to tell a restored watch with replacement parts from a truly mint original?

abrod520 · Jul 31, 2018

Hubert
The starting reference should be the CH80 prototypes from 2014. Those were pretty close to the Calibre 17 Boutique editions. Any improvements to the proportions would certainly be welcomed.
Pictures from David's 2014 First Look: https://www.calibre11.com/tag-heuer-carrera-calibre-ch80-first-look/

I agree, and those weren't so bad - they appear to have taken some of the thickness out of the mid-case and added it in the bezel and the caseback. The trick to making this work is putting the springbar holes further down in the lugs, so they "wrap around" your wrist.

Hubert · Jul 31, 2018

abrod520
I agree, and those weren't so bad - they appear to have taken some of the thickness out of the mid-case and added it in the bezel and the caseback. The trick to making this work is putting the springbar holes further down in the lugs, so they "wrap around" your wrist.

Yes, they have a pretty good starting point with the CH80 design. If the keep the proportions to look close to the Heuer originals, they'll have a winning combination.

Calibre11 · Jul 31, 2018

In terms of any future collab watch- and again, there is nothing planned today- the odds are very, very low of any combination of case/ dial that is not already in the catalogue. And at the moment, there is no Heuer-02 Carrera in the classic Carrera case.

What would be more possible would be to use the modular 43mm Carrera case with a classic dial instead of the Skeleton dial...but that is getting away from the classic Carrera look and feel.

Hubert · Jul 31, 2018

Calibre11
In terms of any future collab watch- and again, there is nothing planned today- the odds are very, very low of any combination of case/ dial that is not already in the catalogue. And at the moment, there is no Heuer-02 Carrera in the classic Carrera case.

What would be more possible would be to use the modular 43mm Carrera case with a classic dial instead of the Skeleton dial...but that is getting away from the classic Carrera look and feel.

Yes, getting back to reality. Do you think a two sub-dial Calibre 17 heritage Carrera could be an option? Or what about a Calibre 18 Carrera?

Mr_Orange · Jul 31, 2018

Hubert
Yes, getting back to reality. Do you think a two sub-dial Calibre 17 heritage Carrera could be an option? Or what about a Calibre 18 Carrera?

This 😀

Ara · Jul 31, 2018

Hubert
Yes, getting back to reality. Do you think a two sub-dial Calibre 17 heritage Carrera could be an option? Or what about a Calibre 18 Carrera?

Oooh. Count me in for a Calibre 18 heritage. I'd be 100% in for a black dialed Calibre 18 Carrera Telemeter if one was ever produced, despite what I've read from a few people here re: the movement not being justified in the price. Prob be my next Photoshop on IG.

The 39mm Telemeter case / aesthetics are just too close to being vintage-perfect to resist for me. Might pick up one of these soon. Have resisted too long...

Hubert · Jul 31, 2018

Hubert
Yes, getting back to reality. Do you think a two sub-dial Calibre 17 heritage Carrera could be an option? Or what about a Calibre 18 Carrera?

Mr_Orange
This 😀

My preference would also be the Calibre 17 heritage Carrera, but would accept a Calibre 18, as long as it has well proportioned subdials.

TonyStark · Aug 1, 2018

How about something using the monza case?

'Tribute to camaro'?

Aquagraph · Aug 1, 2018

Brings back memories of your Monza Phantom prototype....

imagwai · Aug 1, 2018

Calibre 18 for me also, although thought there weren't any cases left (plus it's already been done, although I'm sure we could come up with something better!)

TAG Heuer Visit/ LE Heuer-02t

Calibre11

Mr_Orange

Hubert

Gambba

abrod520

Hubert

TonyStark

TonyStark

Mr_Orange

Calibre11

abrod520

Hubert

Calibre11

Hubert

Mr_Orange

Ara

Hubert

TonyStark

Aquagraph

imagwai

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