New 2024 TAG Heuer Aquaracer 300

[Jim Dollares]

dtf

Didn’t breitling/iwc do this before they went manufacture?

They still do in their "cheap" entry level models around the 6k price segment

 

[abrod520]

dtf

maybe TH have finally started heading sw200s finished to their spec rather than buying the cheapest ones? Didn’t breitling/iwc do this before they went manufacture?

Jim, we’re going to need you to do science!

Jim Dollares

They still do in their "cheap" entry level models around the 6k price segment

They did and those movements may as well be completely different the way they'd been finished compared to TAG.

IWC's new 3-handers are of the higher quality 'in-house' now; I am not sure who they used but it's not Sellita.

I think Breitling still uses it in the least expensive Superoceans and such but if my own Superocean is any indication it'll be pretty nice.
No hint of any winding issues with my Superocean for instance, and after almost 4 years it still keeps perhaps the best time of all my watches.

 

[Jim Dollares]

abrod520

IWC's new 3-handers are of the higher quality 'in-house' now; I am not sure who they used but it's not Sellita.

No longer sellita, correct. There is a big difference between the 32 and the 82 series movements though, right? The 32 series falsely advertised as "IWC manufactured" is a standard Val Flurrier movement used by many Richemont brands like Baume Mercier. While the 82 series seems to, at least partially, actually be manufactured to some degree by IWC (and therefore only exists in watches that cost thousands more).

 

[dtf]

abrod520

They did and those movements may as well be completely different the way they'd been finished compared to TAG.

IWC's new 3-handers are of the higher quality 'in-house' now; I am not sure who they used but it's not Sellita.

I think Breitling still uses it in the least expensive Superoceans and such but if my own Superocean is any indication it'll be pretty nice.
No hint of any winding issues with my Superocean for instance, and after almost 4 years it still keeps perhaps the best time of all my watches.

Did they use a silicon hairspring? I’d really like an anti-mag calibre 5.

I’ve been toying with talking to a watchmaker about fitting a breitling sw200 in my Aquaracer.

Also super ocean..have you ever posted pictures?

 

[abrod520]

Jim Dollares

No longer sellita, correct. There is a big difference between the 32 and the 82 series movements though, right? The 32 series falsely advertised as "IWC manufactured" is a standard Val Flurrier movement used by many Richemont brands like Baume Mercier. While the 82 series seems to, at least partially, actually be manufactured to some degree by IWC (and therefore only exists in watches that cost thousands more).

I am not entirely sure, but ValFleurier is owned by Richemont so they can get away with the technicality of it being a manufacture movement. I don't really care about that though as much as I do not having a crappy Sellita in a watch (though in the case of my IWC, I think the finished Sellita is a benefit because I won't have to send it to IWC for service, ever)
As for the 82 series, I think the main reason the watches are more expensive is because those are in the Big Pilots and such, and IWC is certainly not unique in their view that 'bigger watch is more expensive'

dtf

Did they use a silicon hairspring? I’d really like an anti-mag calibre 5.

I’ve been toying with talking to a watchmaker about fitting a breitling sw200 in my Aquaracer.

Also super ocean..have you ever posted pictures?

Nah no silicon hairspring I think. IWC Pilot cases have iron inner cases for antimag, and Breitling makes no mention of any of it.

For TAGs (and microbrands) with the Sellita, it's easy to just leave it on a winder. Find a cheap one on eBay, doesn't cost much.

As for the Superocean, yeah a number of times, it's a Superocean 57 Outerknown edition. Not one of the newest ones.

 

[Jim Dollares]

abrod520

As for the 82 series, I think the main reason the watches are more expensive is because those are in the Big Pilots and such, and IWC is certainly not unique in their view that 'bigger watch is more expensive'

Not entirely true, the 82 series is also used in tiny watches such as the Portugieser 40.

I am pretty sure the main difference is that IWC partially manufactures the 82 while they buy the 32 from Val flurry. Both branded "IWC-manufactured" on the specs on IWC's website but many other sources list the 32 series as manufactured by Val flurrey.

 

[dtf]

abrod520

For TAGs (and microbrands) with the Sellita, it's easy to just leave it on a winder. Find a cheap one on eBay, doesn't cost much.

My calibre 5 wouldn’t wind on either of my chargers (set on tag spec or turned up to the max winding), so I sold them. Plus the noise of winders kicking in was annoying.

 

[Aquagraph]

I've stopped using my watch winder, now I just wear the watch for an hour and then put it right.

 

[abrod520]

Jim Dollares

Not entirely true, the 82 series is also used in tiny watches such as the Portugieser 40.

I am pretty sure the main difference is that IWC partially manufactures the 82 while they buy the 32 from Val flurry. Both branded "IWC-manufactured" on the specs on IWC's website but many other sources list the 32 series as manufactured by Val flurrey.

The 82 series in the Portugieser is a bit different with the small seconds, and I wonder if it might be a bit more nicely finished too because of the dressier nature. (Can't tell from the renders on the site though)

 

[abrod520]

dtf

My calibre 5 wouldn’t wind on either of my chargers (set on tag spec or turned up to the max winding), so I sold them. Plus the noise of winders kicking in was annoying.

Interesting, now that sounds like a real problem with the movement that probably should've been handled under warranty IMO. (Or by a watchmaker if out of warranty, probably just a bit more lube or loosening the rotor bearing)

Even my cheap winders aren't noisy enough to bother me though, and I'm a terrible sleeper

 

[bpsmith]

Most winders run for 12 hours, break for 12 hours and repeat, so just run it during the day if you find it annoying.

Edited: Jun 28, 2024

 

[Jim Dollares]

Dudeman1973 posted the following on wus. I asked where he found his info but all I got was that if you are a business analyst it is easy to find 🙄

Interesting nonetheless. Can anyone up in dis forum of ours confirm all or parts of it?

They have a swiss patent filing noting LVMH as the grantor of their financial loans. It looks like a 60-40 ownership model with Selitta holding the rights to their own IP and proprietary technology and manufacturing. With Tag-Heuer( LVMH) holding the patents to the new movements.

The new movements are a Tag-Heuer owned design. Weather Selitta designed them for Tag-Heuer or Tag did. That it doesn't specify. Either way these are Tag only movements owned by them only for them.

It seems I misspoke on LVMH owning AMT SA. Selitta owns them. AMT SA and LVMH have a business agreement where LVMH owns 60 percent in their manufacturing partnership. Not the company.

Tag Heuer has their own manufacturing building at AMT SA according to the filing and they bought a ton of manufacturing equipment. Looks like they both are in it for the long haul. Kenessi and Tudor have a almost identical agreement. So does Brietling.

Only difference Tag says in their advertising that the new movements are designed by them. They do not state that's it's in house.

Tudor does. Brietling as far as I know doesn't. They say designed as well. Like Foxconn making a designed by Apple in California iphone.

These are not Selitta movements. From the filings that much is clear. Selitta owns the molds and the right to manufacture them but that's about it.

Tag Heuer has every right to call this a in house movements if Tudor does. The same can be said for the rest of them.Credit to them for not doing so and being transparent.

As a Business Analyst this info is easy to find.

 

[Jim Dollares]

Mr. Brent Miller showing the new Batman. Folded fabric dial looks stunning

 

[Jim Dollares]

Blue vs black comparison

 

[McBeardy]

I tried on the blue GMT over the weekend, unfortunately didn't get any pictures. But unsure why @Aquagraph dislikes the dial soo much, looks nice if I'm honest. New size case was nice also, who knew 1mm would make that much difference. The annoying part is I was discussing the new green diver, and that's what I'm interested in, the SA mentioned only the blue. As I left they were all on display round the corner (at this point the kids weren't playing ball so no chance on going back in).

 

[Aquagraph]

Wears much smaller than old model for sure.

 

[all-x]

McBeardy

I tried on the blue GMT over the weekend, unfortunately didn't get any pictures. But unsure why @Aquagraph dislikes the dial soo much, looks nice if I'm honest. New size case was nice also, who knew 1mm would make that much difference. The annoying part is I was discussing the new green diver, and that's what I'm interested in, the SA mentioned only the blue. As I left they were all on display round the corner (at this point the kids weren't playing ball so no chance on going back in).

I believe @Aquagraph 's dislike was related to the blue diver not the GMT. There is a big difference live when you compare them side by side, I much prefer the blue GMT dial, the wave pattern is much more subdued and the shade of blue looks much nicer to my eyes.

 

[Aquagraph]

Yes.

 

[JAH]

I got to try one in an AD recently. A bit small and very light. Is that just me thinking an AR should have some "beef" to it ?

 

[Aquagraph]

No, and I agree it seems much smaller than 1mm less