Heuer and Tag Heuer 1000 Restoration Parts and Service

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Thanks Jkbenn02,seems even the AD didn't know this about the indices, guess I'll just need to wait for a new face to turn up for sale sometime.
 
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ADs are pretty much good for info on current models and a good forum for anything no longer made. I'll let you know if I come across any better than yours or send me an email or pm if you are interested in having it refinished.

Thanks

Justin
 
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Such a shame.. The .113 does come up for sale quite often, if you're willing to pay for a new piece to get the dial though! :-/
 
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I am testing my dial refinisher's mettle right now with a .113 dial. I can't wait to see if he can do it (I've had many dials refinished but never a full lume). If he does agree to do it I'll post up pics.
 
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Two more serviced divers ready to ship back to their owners. Thanks guys! I love bringing these things back to life!
 
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The 980.013 (black dial and bezel version) pics were the after-pics from my post from Feb 7th.
 
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Two more serviced divers ready to ship back to their owners. Thanks guys! I love bringing these things back to life!
Fantastic work! This is becoming one of my favourite threads!
 
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Hopefully you guys don't get tired of me just posting pics but here is one after a restoration that is shipping back to the owner tomorrow. The owner spec'd a solid link oyster bracelet to be installed as well:

Before pic included.(I don't know where the rest of my before pics disappeared to so I only have a partial shot).
 
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Hopefully you guys don't get tired of me just posting pics but here is one after a restoration that is shipping back to the owner tomorrow. The owner spec'd a solid link oyster bracelet to be installed as well:

Before pic included.(I don't know where the rest of my before pics disappeared to so I only have a partial shot).
The more posts like these the better!
 
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Justin,

Have you ever heard any anyone successfully redoing the PVD coating on one of these divers? It's a question I get quite regularly, and I've always responded that its too hard to really be contemplated- especially if you want to re-do the jubilee bracelet as well. Any thoughts?

Dc
 
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I have only seen one person get something reposted and it was in DLC. It's was Stewart's Autavia and it was about $1000. This work was done by Jack at IWW if I recall correctly.

I've written to Jack on a few occasions about coatings and he didn't seem interested in doing the 1000s. I can only assume that at the pr Due point he charges it really isn't worth the expense. $1000 coating on a $500-1000 watch...it would be hard to find a buyer for that service.

SteveP was working with a British company to see about the possibilities of watch coatings but I believe that was also prohibitively expensive as well.

Most potential customers are starting with a higher end watch such as a Rolex or Panerai and at that point it makes sense.

I've had a couple watches Cerakoted (ceramic coated) by Motor City Watchworks in Detroit. That is a spray on and bake coating but bracelets aren't something they do because (I'm assuming) that soraying the entirety of a bracelet just doesn't work with this process. It's not full immersion like a vapor deposited coating such as PVD or DLC.

That's what makes finding an excellent example of a Pvd Heuer so special. They just didn't have a durable coating process back in the early 80's that could stand the test of time and rigors of daily wrist use. When they pop up they command stiff prices and once wear is present the prices essentially fall off a cliff. For example 980.026s in mint condition sell for ~$1k or more with the full kit but if it has some wear you can halve the price.

Good hunting out their folks. They do exist.
 
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Full-size two-tone (980.020) in for a complete overhaul. Stay tuned for the after pics...
Very interesting thread, guys. Another well used 980.020 here, J, 1986 model or thereabouts, daily wearer in UK since new. Sadly, crown threads now totally US and watch restricted to dry duties only. I did post here last year on 1000 series thread, photo attached, although is less tatty than photo indicates! Did subsequently contact TH but not especially helpful. Watch went for a full service back at TG at 15 yrs old but not impressed; had to be returned twice, until finally sorted. Only new batteries since then and still runs perfectly. Thing is, don't want a full refurb, just crown threads sorting, plus any gaskets, seals, lube etc that needs doing - the face, worn bezel, bracelet scratches all part of character of my watch -"Trigger's Broom" and all that! Your enthusiasm and expertise very reassuring but slightly worried about sticking it in an envelope and sending off to unknown US address! If you need any more pictures, let me know but I guess you know exactly what is required. Just not sure I am confident to send it off for repair, least of all back to TH after what happened last time...but I would like to get the crown to screw in securely to any avoid moisture getting in, long term. Any comments and advice welcome. Andy
 
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It's so great to hear from original owners of these watches! You all are what give these some of their character and the stories we all wonder about when buying something vintage.

If you have someone you trust to install the parts I can send the parts to you so you don't have to mail it across the pond (though you wouldn't be the first to do so, I get them all the time from the UK, EU, etc.

Send me an email at jkbenn02@yahoo.com
 
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Very interesting thread, guys. Another well used 980.020 here, J, 1986 model or thereabouts, daily wearer in UK since new. Sadly, crown threads now totally US and watch restricted to dry duties only. I did post here last year on 1000 series thread, photo attached, although is less tatty than photo indicates! Did subsequently contact TH but not especially helpful. Watch went for a full service back at TG at 15 yrs old but not impressed; had to be returned twice, until finally sorted. Only new batteries since then and still runs perfectly. Thing is, don't want a full refurb, just crown threads sorting, plus any gaskets, seals, lube etc that needs doing - the face, worn bezel, bracelet scratches all part of character of my watch -"Trigger's Broom" and all that! Your enthusiasm and expertise very reassuring but slightly worried about sticking it in an envelope and sending off to unknown US address! If you need any more pictures, let me know but I guess you know exactly what is required. Just not sure I am confident to send it off for repair, least of all back to TH after what happened last time...but I would like to get the crown to screw in securely to any avoid moisture getting in, long term. Any comments and advice welcome. Andy
 
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First execution 980.013 on the bench today. This is a custom project which features an automatic ETA 2824-2 movement swap.

That's one of the perks of having a first execution thick case, the ability to convert it to an auto. All subsections executions were reduced in size and unable to accept a 2824-2. Little modification is required to do this swap and it is 100% reversible should you want to bring it back to stock.
 
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FYI post: not all full size 38mm 1000s are created equal.

This is a comparison between the first and last generation models to give a little insight into enthusiasts out there who made be trying to decide what to get.

Also, if you have owned or tried on a later version (L, B, N, or D designations) and thought they were too small or lacked enough presence on the wrist for your tastes then you owe it to yourself to try the first!

Everything about the first execution case was beefier. The bezel, midcase, and back was thicker than the later versions (L models excluded). These are properly thick divers and really add some height and heft to the watch.

The difference between the first and last executions was 3.5mm or 27%! That is a huge difference on a watch and it most certainly doesn't go unnoticed. Take a look for yourselves below (same patina'd 980.013 in the previous post along with an in-progress 980.026N in the last shot):
 
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I have only seen one person get something reposted and it was in DLC. It's was Stewart's Autavia and it was about $1000. This work was done by Jack at IWW if I recall correctly.

I've written to Jack on a few occasions about coatings and he didn't seem interested in doing the 1000s. I can only assume that at the pr Due point he charges it really isn't worth the expense. $1000 coating on a $500-1000 watch...it would be hard to find a buyer for that service.

SteveP was working with a British company to see about the possibilities of watch coatings but I believe that was also prohibitively expensive as well.

Most potential customers are starting with a higher end watch such as a Rolex or Panerai and at that point it makes sense.

I've had a couple watches Cerakoted (ceramic coated) by Motor City Watchworks in Detroit. That is a spray on and bake coating but bracelets aren't something they do because (I'm assuming) that soraying the entirety of a bracelet just doesn't work with this process. It's not full immersion like a vapor deposited coating such as PVD or DLC.

That's what makes finding an excellent example of a Pvd Heuer so special. They just didn't have a durable coating process back in the early 80's that could stand the test of time and rigors of daily wrist use. When they pop up they command stiff prices and once wear is present the prices essentially fall off a cliff. For example 980.026s in mint condition sell for ~$1k or more with the full kit but if it has some wear you can halve the price.

Good hunting out their folks. They do exist.
Thanks Justin- yes, agree with you: maybe its possible, but its likely uneconomic. As always, spend the time to find an original
 
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I have only seen one person get something reposted and it was in DLC. It's was Stewart's Autavia and it was about $1000. This work was done by Jack at IWW if I recall correctly.

SteveP was working with a British company to see about the possibilities of watch coatings but I believe that was also prohibitively expensive as well.

Hi all-yes it was IWW that did Stewart's-he had it done full shebang-so fully blasted first and then coated. It took quiiite some time I recall, but the end result was something else! As Justin said, I did manage to make a couple of inroads on a re-PVD process and actually, the costs weren't coming up too bad...particularly if the parts could go through the process with some other items they were coating. They were more keen on doing items in bulk or a long term agreement though, and as I only wanted a couple of pieces doing I didn't pursue it.

Fully agree it's better to find something 'original' though.:-)

ps on Justin's above post regarding the case depths-you wouldn't think 3.5mm is very much but they wear very differently!
Steve