Watches and Wonders 2023

[Jim Dollares]

abrod520

They are this year, not Kenissi as we expected but AMT. Starting with the gold and TT Aquaracers, this new movement has an 80-hour power reserve and is COSC-certified.
(The TH20 should have been though 100%)

I did not know about this. Google tells me AMT is Sellita?

 

[Mspeedster]

Yeah, I'm getting confused now. I thought the upcoming all gold Aquaracer was going to use the TH30-00, which is Kenissi based. Same movement found in the Super Diver.

 

[Jim Dollares]

Mspeedster

Yeah, I'm getting confused now. I thought the upcoming all gold Aquaracer was going to use the TH30-00, which is Kenissi based. Same movement found in the Super Diver.

No the new ones have TH31 right? Which is AMT which is another name for Sellita

 

[Mspeedster]

Jim Dollares

No the new ones have TH31 right? Which is AMT which is another name for Sellita

I just assumed the TH31 was a slightly different version of the TH30. Haven't paid close attention to the PR on the new Aquaracers. But now I see that that the TH31 is indeed AMT based. Don't know if it's a Sellita spin off or the origin details of what TAG is using.

 

[abrod520]

Mspeedster

Yes, that's a good start. But will they retrofit it into existing models, the way some other makers make running enhancements to their products? That's what I really want to see.

Not sure, but it looks like it won't - for instance, the H02 soldiers on in the Elegant and Sport while the new 39s get the TH20.

 

[abrod520]

Mspeedster

Don't know if it's a Sellita spin off or the origin details of what TAG is using.

From what I gather, AMT is the bespoke arm of Sellita competing with Kenissi and the like. Rather than offering off-the-shelf movements

 

[Jim Dollares]

Ok so I found this explanation of the TH31

It was co-developed with by TAG Heuer and AMT, a high-end Swiss movement manufacture based in la Chaux-de-Fonds. According to the brand, AMT produces and assembles this movement exclusively for TAG Heuer.


And this is how TAG explains it on their website for their customers:



Another round of misleading deceiving Swiss greed oh yeah baby

 

[Jim Dollares]

abrod520

From what I gather, AMT is the bespoke arm of Sellita competing with Kenissi and the like. Rather than offering off-the-shelf movements

I find this very interesting. Why is ordering a sw200 more "off the shelf" than ordering Kenissi's standard 70h PR movement that Norqain, Breitling and others use? Does it become off the shelf because sw200 is sold in millions but Kenissi's movement is sold in smaller quantities?

 

[Aquagraph]

Didn't you read it was developed in partnership? So clearly 100% in house

 

[Jim Dollares]

Aquagraph

Didn't you read it was developed in partnership? So clearly 100% in house

You think TAG did more than design the rotor?

 

[Aquagraph]

Jim Dollares

You think TAG did more than design the rotor?

Well the rotor is a vital part of the mechanism, isn't it?

 

[Jim Dollares]

Dont get me wrong tho, it is a pretty looking rotor



Powered by the In-House TH31 by AMT for Sellita for TAG Heuer

 

[McBeardy]

Jim Dollares

Dont get me wrong tho, it is a pretty looking rotor



Powered by the In-House TH31 by AMT for Sellita for TAG Heuer

Wish the rotor was a different colour. Like the H02 WoS Ed which was black. Really make it stand out

 

[Ara]

Jim Dollares

Can someone with contacts at TAG please make this happen for 2024, I would definitely be there

ME TOO

 

[Ara]

Yago

I wouldn't mind @Ara 's Carrera design with the checkered chapter ring in the new glassbox. Classic panda with white dial and black subdials. I wouldn't mind at all

I agree with @Yago !

 

[Ara]

kappa_md

Can this be a reverse panda?

Here's some vintage 2020 Photoshops I found in my Dropbox.

 

[abrod520]

Jim Dollares

I find this very interesting. Why is ordering a sw200 more "off the shelf" than ordering Kenissi's standard 70h PR movement that Norqain, Breitling and others use? Does it become off the shelf because sw200 is sold in millions but Kenissi's movement is sold in smaller quantities?

I think these movements are more customizable than the off-the-shelf ones (which only have options for certain features + the level of finishing)

Jim Dollares

Another round of misleading deceiving Swiss greed oh yeah baby

I mean yeah but TAG is far from the worst offender on this

 

[dtf]

Jim Dollares

Why is ordering a sw200 more "off the shelf" than ordering Kenissi's standard 70h PR movement that Norqain, Breitling and others use?

I’ve never understood this! Lots of FUD around movements.

 

[paysdoufs]

Initially posted that novel of mine to the wrong thread…

I had the opportunity to check out all (relevant) Carrera chrono novelties today in their boutique in Lyon. What can I say? I’m seeing much clearer now between the 39mm, 42mm (and 44mm) sizes.

39mm is just too damn small for me - especially when it’s a round watch with short L2L, like the latest Carreras are (I don’t have problems wearing 37mm or 38mm vintage watches, though - if they have a somehow beefier case shape). I do realize now that this was one of the biggest obstacles that kept me from falling for the 60s Panda (in addition to the hands mismatch)…

For me, the 42 Elegant is the pick of the litter when it comes to almost universal sizing. I feel that TH really did a great job with that case shape. Plus: the latest models with the orange and red accents are a step in the right direction since on the original four colors the dial could appear just a bit too empty & borderline boring. But the two new ones don’t sway me for good since I’m currently a bit bored of black and blue watches and would prefer almost any other color. I’ll remain on the lookout for (ideally) a new multicolored variant, as long as it’s not panda or orca (I really got that covered). I think my wet dream would be a silver dial with blue subdials and orange accents

Finally, the 44mm is probably great for those who specifically search a bigger, bolder & sportier watch. I haven’t tried it on, but it could imagine that it also wears visually smaller than its dimensions suggest.

Two negative notes, though:
- Price increase incoming on the 01-Apr-2023. Prices of the 42mm Elegant will go up to where the two 42mm novelties already are. Monaco Cal.11 will be close to (basically at) 8k EUR.
- TH seems to have a QC problem: the black & orange/red Elegant had a date wheel that was absolutely not centered in the date window. It got better when you made it “click” for a bit, but then the other issue became apparent, i.e., that the date change occurred well, well after midnight.

 

[HoltzPlatz]

New Aquaracer semi-gold w/diamond markers looks brilliant. A special treat for the ladies. Not that I'm looking..