French-made Heuer Reference 1589B

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Heuer sold quite a few French made watches in the late 1970s/ early 1980s- including the first versions of the 1000 Diver series.

This is one of the more...unusual


The Ref. 1589B (there were two versions- the sister watch Ref. 1611 is basically the same but with a Silver tachy ring) looks like a 3-register chronograph, but the 3 o'clock register is actually only a date register.

The movement is the manual-wind Valjoux 7765, a variant of the 7750. Note that the dial only says "Ebauche Swiss", which means that the basic part of the movement is made in Switzerland, with the remainder likely finished with the watch in France.

The cases are stainless steel with a sand-blasted finish and a mineral glass.

An unusual chapter in Heuer's history for sure...
 
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Where did these fit in with the grand scheme of things? Were they an entry level Heuer available worldwide, or limited to certain regions?
 
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Where did these fit in with the grand scheme of things? Were they an entry level Heuer available worldwide, or limited to certain regions?

Not 100% sure Alex. As we get later in the 1970s, there does seem to be more regional variation, with some models only sold in certain markets. These French Heuers almost certainly come from the Besançon area (certainly the early 1000 series is from there), which is less than 100kms from the "Watch Valley" in Switzerland.

My guess is that in the late 70s Heuer was scrambling to do everything it could to survive, and so trying out lower cost models like these made sense.
 
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Hello. Please can anyone help here. I am looking at this watch at a showroom tomorrow. It seems to be a 1589b with 13-1 hands? Anyone seen that before? Could it be a fake? Thanks for any help.
 
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Hello. Please can anyone help here. I am looking at this watch at a showroom tomorrow. It seems to be a 1589b with 13-1 hands? Anyone seen that before? Could it be a fake? Thanks for any help.

The fume dial model is the 1529. The hands are not the common orange ones seen on the 1529, and neither is the Heuer shield in black instead of white.

Fake? No. You’ll not find fakes of these really and only the occasional put together ones from spares. Could this one be put together? It could well be, but also could easily have left the factory like this. I’ve seen quite a few hand combos on all of these French made models (1611, 1614, 1589, 1529). Have a google and you’ll see what I mean.

The minute have does appear to be a bit longer than standard, but determining how many variations there were is impossible, as it’s just not documented.

Certainly not 13-1 hands though. I just checked mine.

Here’s my 1529 for reference;
 
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Thank you so much Gambba. I really appreciate your feedback. It's nice to hear from an actual 1529 owner.I notice on yours it says "Ebrauche Swisse" as opposed to the "Made in France" of the one I am looking at. I think I'll put a commission bid in and see what happens. If I get it - I'll update here with some more pics. Thanks again for your quick and informed reply.
 
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Thank you so much Gambba. I really appreciate your feedback. It's nice to hear from an actual 1529 owner.I notice on yours it says "Ebrauche Swisse" as opposed to the "Made in France" of the one I am looking at. I think I'll put a commission bid in and see what happens. If I get it - I'll update here with some more pics. Thanks again for your quick and informed reply.
That's a good point. I don't recall seeing an "Ebauche Swisse" script before. Makes sense, as the movement itself is Swiss (or at least the base Ebauche), even if the watch was assembled in France.
 
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I’ve seen both variations before, although like many of the Heuer design elements impossible to tell where it started or ended.

I’ve got a feeling they may be later models with Heuer trying to get away from the French connection, but is not based on anything but my thoughts. The same goes for the use of Incabloc on the dial.

So many small changes within such short timeframes does make it rather interesting collecting Heuer 🤨
Edited:
 
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P.S. I love mine and one of my favourite pieces. The Fume dial being so 70’s what’s not to love!
 
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Gambba, you seem to be in the know on some of these models. Do you or David or anyone else for that matter know of this watch or seen it before.
It has my eye as it's chrono subdials remind me of my new Red W Monaco.
Trying to find out any more info on this watch. Any help appreciated.
 
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After doing a bit more googling myself, I came across this previous thread which shed some light on this watch.
Seems it is likely to be a fake.
https://forums.calibre11.com/threads/identify-an-heuer.53402/

Cheers.
Yes, I think it probably is, but there are a few 1970s designs that fall into the "not definately genuine but could be" category. It's not in any of the catalogues, but we do see examples where genuine watches aren't always listed.
 
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@heuer1860 a fake in my eyes that one. It just isn’t in keeping with Heuer design of the time with the dial looking clunky, especially when combined with the hands and case.
The signed caseback is not correct in my opinion either.
 
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@heuer1860 a fake in my eyes that one. It just isn’t in keeping with Heuer design of the time with the dial looking clunky, especially when combined with the hands and case.
The signed caseback is not correct in my opinion either.
Movement finishing is poor
 
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This seems like a good place to connect what might be these French market Heuers. Just collected this one from eBay, but I'm thinking it is likely fake and will be going back.
 
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Hi, I think you posted on FB too? I do agree this is likely not original. If nothing else I'm not sure who 'Heuer & Co' are. Older Heuers were signed 'Ed Heuer & Co' if anything, later such as this was merely 'Heuer'. There are 'unknowns' about the other components too I'm afraid.
Steve
 
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Hi, I think you posted on FB too? I do agree this is likely not original. If nothing else I'm not sure who 'Heuer & Co' are. Older Heuers were signed 'Ed Heuer & Co' if anything, later such as this was merely 'Heuer'. There are 'unknowns' about the other components too I'm afraid.
Steve

Yep, that was me. Someone mentioned to me it might be a French market design which led me here. Buyer beware as it's likely to end up back on eBay soon.
 
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Looks like a porsche design Orfina case