Hey all, I’m considering an Aquaracer and noticed there are (at least) two versions of these watches. Does anyone know what the difference is between them? Did the WAY211C-0 (or this reference in general) have any quality control issues?

I remember an older Aquaracer, the WAN2111, having some issues with the crown stripping, and wasn’t sure if I should be wary of any major problems with the WAY211C.

I’m probably looking to buy this reference BNIB from the gray market since the TAG official site is sold out in CONUS, and the gray prices for this reference are incredible (I’ve seen a few over 30% off MSRP)... though I’m also a bit sketched out, since many major grays are out of stock, and it tends to list pre-owned at <25% off MSRP.

Thanks in advance!

 

I can't answer your question about the differences, but I can enlighten you regarding crown stripping. It was thought to be a problem with Aquaracers made around '08-'10. It was also speculated that it was a material defect, inferior composition or not hardened enough. I also read that TAG was rejecting warranty claims, saying the owner mishandled them. They did eventually reverse that position, likely based on the number of defects that were showing up.

I have one on the bench right now; my son's WAF2010, likely made about 2010, The crown tube stripped to the point where you can barely catch the threads together, maybe an eighth of a turn. Examining the parts, the tube itself is stripped for some of its length but there are still good threads deeper in. It's hard to say about the crown as you look at the threads down the axis and even in a 40x stereo microscope (Nikon, no toy) I can't see if the threads are damaged.

OK, here's the kicker. With the movement removed, you can screw the stem/crown in and it turns about one and a half turns before it actually bottoms out on the case.

TAG cut the stems too long!

The stem is supplied by the movement maker in an overlength condition and it up to the watch manufacturer to trim the stem to the proper length for the case. Even the ETA drawings don't specify how far the crown should pop out but only recommend "Safety" which I presume is a poor translation of "enough distance that the watch can be wound in position one, but no more".

I have three Aquaracers, including a WAN2110 that was made a little later and it has very little safety, it's almost hard to wind without catching the threads. My WAK2180 is more generous, maybe 0.5 mm. Can't remember about the CAJ2180 but It's probably similar to the WAK.

I reject the inferior material argument as the tube is Austenitic Stainless and can't be hardened. Once I'm done with the parts (I have some other experiments to try with them) I'll do a destructive analysis to examine the thread states. Unfortunately, the tube threads are gone as it's pulled from the case with a TAG special tool that cuts it own threads and pulls straight out by pressing against the case just around the tube. I paid someone who has the tool for that service.

 

I had both my WAN2110 and WAK2180 in my hands last weekend and devised a good way to measure the total thread engagement. Simply look at the ensignia and then count turns until it pops free of the threads. Both watches were just over two full turns.

That says my son't WAF2010 only had about a half turn engagement out of the box. No wonder it stripped.

 

Bump, don't believe this ever got an answer and I too would like to know what the difference between way211c, way211c-1 and way211c-0 is.

 

TAG don't usually inform anybody or make clear what the differences are when incrementing the iteration number on the end of the model number like that. It's very often some manufacturing difference, with no major visible change to the watch.